Thursday, January 28, 2010

assembling a 35mm EM Ceramic Water Structuring Device

I thought it would fit with the previous post to make a video of how to make a "pi blaster".  If you have all the materials to do this, it takes longer to get the ceramics out of the boxes than to put it together.  I think it took me a total of an hour including getting the ceramics, the pvc, the glue, and doing the video.

I'm no plumber, so I haven't gotten a video of how to install one of these into the house's water line (frankly, I think my wife would kill me if I tried!!!).  You simply choose the reducer that fits the water line you're splicing into (1/2", 3/4", 1", etc).  Use some bushings to connect and disconnect periodically, and you're ready to roll.  If you've got a unit connected to a tank, be sure to put in a ball valve so you can shut off the water when removing the unit for cleaning.

I recommend cleaning the unit once every six months.  The way to do it is to soak in Activated EM1 over night (8-12 hours).

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Change of Comment Control

Due to some people who have found this blog and insist on posting Viagra and Cialis ads, I have changed the comment controls which will now be only available to OpenID and registered users.
Eric

Ceramics and Water Discussion

If you haven't joined our Facebook group, I suggest you do so.  It's growing and we're starting to get some discussion going.  The lastest post was from Europe about the effects of the EM® Ceramics on water.  The person has installed a unit in the home and is wondering what is going on.  I have posted replies according to what I know and have read over the years.   And let me tell you, the information on these items is lacking!  You kind of have to go out on a limb and trust your senses to know if they are working.  It is like you say to yourself, "I know something is happening, but what?  How do I know for sure?  The water tastes better...I think...  I feel better when I drink it..."  You can second guess yourself crazy with these things.

That is until you have something to measure.  When I was working for EMRO USA I learned a lot of different things.  One of them was that you use ORP to measure the effects of the ceramics and magnets, etc on water to know if it is going to be a good thing.  (An ORP meter isn't something I would suggest everyone buy.  If you are really into the science of things you should have a brix meter, a pH meter, and EC meter, and an ORP meter.  Sometimes you can find meters that have three or four measuring points, but never include brix....just to drive you nuts.)  Anywhooo....  measuring the ORP shows how oxidative something is.  In other words, if the water you are measure has a reading of 100 vs -100 it has more free radicals in it and is more oxidizing.  You want a negative number and the lower, the better.  This means that the water will be less oxidizing and support antioxidants.

Another thing I learned is that the ceramics have almost no affect on pH.  This is kind of weird because all the measurements (pH, EC, ORP) are measure charges in the water.  EC is measuring salts, charged particles.  ORP is measuring oxidation, ion levels (an ion is a charged particle by the way).  And, pH is measure H+ and OH-, or...charged particles.  So, even though the ORP will drop, sometimes dramatically (we saw is go from +100 to -69 right from the tap) it doesn't change the pH.  I also found this weird because the ceramics themselves are alkaline.  The Super C powder has a pH of somewhere around 9 (7 is neutral).  The powdered ceramics can change the pH of water as they get suspended in the water as long as they stay in suspension.  The hard ceramics do not make any change.

Just some food for thought...

Tuesday, January 05, 2010

35mm ceramics in-line water treatment


EM Ceramics still seem to be somewhat of a mystery to all of us.  This is probably because what they do is so subtle and we can't really see it.  The only way to know exactly what they do is to measure the ORP and the dissolved solids, or contaminants that are in the water.  

ORP is a measurement of the Oxydation Reduction Potential.  In other words, the lower the number, the less oxidizing the material is.  You can get ORP meters through scientific catalog suppliers such as Cole Parmer or Fisher Scientific.

We sell a set of ceramics called the "35mm Pipe".  It has fluted sides and is 35mm wide and 35mm long.  These units are designed to put inside of a pipe where water will flow over and through them.  According to Dr. Higa, one until will remove all the chlorine in a 55-gallon barrel in 30 minutes.  The way to maximize their effects is to circulate water through them.  The center has a cut out that will force the water to spin when under pressure. This creates a vortexing action which further structures the water.  The goal here is to get the most energy into the water, remove the most contaminants, and reduce molecule cluster size.  You can only do this by re-circulation.  


Making a "Pi Blaster"

This is the ceramic unit part of the deal.  From here, you can configure some simple recirculation unit using a centrifugal pump.   

Once you have all the parts, it only takes about 10 minutes to make one of these.  You'll be able to find all the parts required at any hardware store.  You can use threaded reducers or slip pipe.  If you use slips, make sure to let the cement dry for a couple hours before running water through it.


Once you make one of these, you can set it up in a large pond, aquarium, animal troughs, or a household unit.  You'll want to use about 4 packs of the pipes for every 1,000 gallons of water.  For the first run, make sure you circulate the entire tank contents so that there are at least 4 full passes through the unit.  Once you have conditioned the water, you'll want to circulate when new water is added.  However, you won't need to circulate it as much since the rest of the water is conditioned.  2 passes should do the trick.


Taste the water and you'll notice it tastes better and will quench thirst better.

 

 
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